Sewing-machine for making thread buttons.



H. LAULA. SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING THREAD BUTTONS.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 19, 1910. 1,105,354, Patented July 28,1914.

12 SHEBTS SHEET l.

12 SHEETS SHEET 2.

Patented July 28, 1914.

. H. LAULA. SEWING MACHINE, FOR MAKING THREAD BUTTONS. I APPLICATION TILED JAN. 18, 1910. 1 ,3 1 55-35% ww N } H.- LAULA. SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING THREAD BUTTONS.

' I APPLICATION TILED JAN.1B,1910. 1,1 5,35 3% Patented July 28,1914.

l2 SHLBTS*SHEET 3.

W &. 4 W IL ward/ 1 M) alum/ma. I

H. LAULA.

SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING THREAD BUTTONS.

APPLICATION FILED JAN.18,1910.

1,105,;35q; Patented July 28, 1914.

12 SHEETS--SHEET 4.

H. LAULA.

SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING THREAD BUTTONS. APPLICATION IILBD JAN. 18, 1910.

ma ma Patented July 28, 191% 12 SHEETS- SHEET Wzkfmzwaa up fi. LAULA.

SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING THREAD BUTTONS 1 P APPLICATION FILED JAN? 1910. P t z 1 8 1914 9 a -55% a amen. Jug Q 12 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

H. LAULA. SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING THREAD BUTTONS. APPLICATION FILED JAN. 19, 1010.

Patented July 28, 1914 12 SHEE LSWSHELT 8.

LAU LA. SEWXNG MACHINE FOR. MAKING THREAD BUTTONS.

, urmommn FILED JAN. 18, 1910. 1,105,354., Patented July 28, 19M '12 SHEETS-SHBBT a.

swim? az'pZc WM B MQ' H.LAULA.

SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING TERBAD BUTTONS.

APPLIOATIOIE FILED JAN. 18, 1910.

Patented- Juiy 28; 191. 12 SHEETS-SHEET 1o.

I HVLAULA. SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING THREAD BUTTONS.

APPLIOATIOH FILED JAN. 18, 1910.

Patented July 28,1914.

12 SHEIJTSSHBET 11.

N IE? SQ k I NEW H. LAULA.

fiEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING APPLICATION FILED JAN. 18, 1910.

THREAD BUTTONS.

Patented July 28, 1914;

1.2 SHEETS-SHEET 12.

l ls

HEETIYRIQE Lilll'l'rd, F VIENNA?"AUFTBIA HUNGARY.

sentinel-newsman son MAKUIG: sen lemons.

specification oi Letters Eetent.

Patented Jolly '3 il hpgslication tiled notary no, 159163. aerial 310. 588,702.

and useful Improvements in Sewing Me ch nes for Making; Three-d Buttons; end

do hereby declare the following to he it full, clear, and exact description of the invention, to such as will enable others skilled inthe art to which it apperteins to make and use the same.

This invention relates to sewing machines and has for its object to provide a lock 15 stitch sewing machine for making thread buttons by the process disclosed in my prior application filed June.l6th-1909, Ser. No. 502,596.

In the accompanying drawings: Figure 1 20 is a plan view on a. large scale of part of c thread button made lay niesnsof the present machine illustrating the vnrioos stages at manufacture. Figsfl, 3 end 4% show on n smaller scale finished buttons of various designs. Fig. 5 is s plan -view,Figs. 5, 5 and 5 show se nmtely parts of Fig. 5, Figs. 6 and 7 are si e elevntions viewed from opposite sides of the machine, Fig. 8 is a bottom view and Fig. 9 s front view of the 33 machine in Fig. 9 the front plate of the needle casing is removed. Fig. 9 is a left hand elevation, partly in section, of the construction shown in Fig. 6. Figs. 10 and v 11 showon a larger scale a plan view and a sectionon the line A B, Fig. 10 respectively of the mechanism for holding and rotating the ring. Fig. 11 is'e fragmentary plan View of the toothed rings 52 and 53 and the parts cooperating therewith. Fig. 11* is a 4% fragmentary radial section through the toothed rings 52 and 53 with the cotiperating parts shown in elevation. Fig. 12 is a vertical section of the controlling shaft and the cams and wheels mounted thereon. ""1 Fig. 13 is a section on the line C, D Fig. 12 showing a detail. Fig. 14 is a detail view of the needle thread chimp. Fig. 15 is a side elevation of the mechanism for automatically changing the speed of the machine and for stopping the latter. Fig. 16 shows on a larger scale a vertical section of the'needle thread brake. Fig. 17 shows a mechanism for varying the step of the intermittent rotation of the ring for producing, the star shaped l design. Figs. 18 and 19 illustrate i'nodillch lions hereinafter referred to.

For fully understanding the present ins chine e short description of the giroee H closed my shid priornpplicntion June 16th- 1909, Ser. No. 56 2596 is pensahlp. in this process the ends needle thresd I) end the shuttle time are first suitably fastened and then a. stitches are made whereby the needle and the shuttle thread are twisted cronnd oi Fig. l at d. Then besides the up n. l down movement, also a. vibrating movement radially to the ring a is imparted. to the needle so that it descends alternately on t inside and on the outside of the ring' a manner similar to that common in hntnin hole sewing machines.

inc shuttle thrc loops formed on the descent the nose outside the ring are drawn by "proper tightening the needle thread "over the side of the rin to its inside while the s thread loops ormed on thedesccntci needle inside the ring are left on its no]. The ring is intermittently rotated nicotine: its geometrical axis (by one step at sites nate stitches) and this is continued "until the ring has made 'siccmplct'e revolntion In this way a covering is formed on the ring in whichthe needle thread rimsalong circle within and substantially concentricto the ring while the shuttle thrend loenfrrs from one point of concatenation" with the needle thread over the top side of the ring; 143' down its outer side below its underside and back to the next following point of concch-z nation with the needle thread inside the ring. This covering is shown on the right hand side of Fig. 1 as it appears the finished button on theleft hand-side oft Fig. 1 the shuttle threed loops ere-shown drawn apart for the sake of clenrnese. When the ring approaches the end of the first revolutionthe end portiond formed by 162%- twistin around each other the" two threads is also mclosed bythe covering After c0mpleting the covering z. e. after the ring has made substantially one complete revolution the radially vibrating movement ofthe needle is stopped so that the needlemoves u and down only inside the rinbut outside the circle formed by the rise le thread inside the ring and concentric thereto and locking the shuttle thread loops of the cow m and n being relative prime whole members, n, being greater then m, for instance,

and always in the same direction. The step of the ring in this stage of the manufacture I is usually somewhat less than 180. There by stitches are formed in which the needle thread I) is above the shuttle thread and both run from. one point of'the ring tol another which is distant from the first point by somewhat less then 180", these stitches being locked by the circular needle thread F) ofthe covering as shown on the left hand side of Fig. 1. These stitches form n star shaped design which. is completed after a certain number of complete revolutions of the ring (such number being" determined by the step of the ring) and then fills the inside of the ring as shown in Fig. 2. Then the step of the intermittent rotation of the ring is reduced but the needle continues to more up and down only stitching through the covering between the outer points of the star shaped design and. the ring and the ring is caused to med a complete revolu-. tion. Thereby a line of stitches b c is formed running completely around inside the ring; as shown on the left hand side of Fig; 1. The button is then ready-for use in many cases but one or more circular lines or". stitches Ii 1: may be produced inside the outer points oi. the star shaped design or another star shaped design having a different step'and overla 'iing the design I) 0 may be added .215 shown in Figs. 3 end 4 respectively.

The machine serving for manufacturing the buttons hereinbetore described by the process set tomb is a hick-stitch machine and the cmistructional form of the machine shown by way of example "in Figs. 5 to 1? is one in which the various movements of the needle and of the ring from the beginning of making the button up to the stopplug of the machincnlter finishing' the lee button are brought throughout.

.lietcrring now more particularly to Figs. to l? i. is the needle, 2 is the needle-bar (Fig. 9) carried. as usual by a frame 3, oscillating around on axis 4 parallel to the nmzdle lmr. 'llhe letter is reciprocated vertieally by a shaft 5 through the medium of about automatically a. crank 6, end a. connecting-rod 7. The

, laid plain disks 3L, 32 which frame 3 is oscillated around the axis i by meansot a lever 215 tulcrumed on the machine and engaging by means of a slot 2l7 a pin 216 on the frame. or needle gate 3. 'l'helever 215 is actuated by a link 1) pivoted at one end to said other end a slotted lever 11, which latter is pivoted at 10 to the machine frame and op crated by a. cam 12 on a continuously relying shaft 13, whereby said link can be adiusted in the slotted lever 11 to vary the stroke of said link and the oscillation of the needle gate 3. If, for example, as shown in Figs. 7 and 9, theend of the link 9 engages the slotted leverll. directly in line with the fulcrum 10 of said lever, the needle gate will not be oscillated at all. On the other hand, by adjusting the link 9 1113-. Wardly in the slotted lever 11, as hereinafter described, the needle gate 3 will be oscillated with an amplitude proportionate to such upward adjustment of said link. The sleeve 8. on which the connecting-rod 7 acts is guided by the presser-footber 14. The movements oi the shaft 5 and, shaft 13 and the arm S) are so timed that during the first revolution ot'the ring a that is to say when the covering is being made, the arm is moved after each up and down movement of the-needle-birr for rocking the frame 3 whereby the needle-bar is vibrated radially lo the ring a, so that the needle stitches alternately at the inside and outside of the'ring.

The ring; a is placed upon a disk 1-5 fast in the cloth-plate 24 (Figs. 10 and 11) and is there held in position b two toothed wheels to, 17 and a pressing Wheel 18 that is applied against the ring by 2. spring 21. The disk is also provided with a needlehole 19 and is inelosed by e button-feed-disk 20 in which the toothed wheels 1G 17 are journeled and on which the spring 21 for the pressing Wheel 18 is secured. The journal pin 198 of the pressing-wheel is iidjustable in a. radial. slot 22 of the button-feed disk 20 and at the bottom of'the latter there is provided a pinion 23. Above the button- :lced-disk an internally toothed wheel is journaled in the cloth-plate 24 and between the hutton-feed-disk and the Wheel 25 there is provided a frictional coupling 26. (or elutch) preferably consisting of a. leather washer interposed between the button feed disk and the wheel 25. The ietter engegeo into the wheels 16 and 17 end hes secure l to it at its upper side a ratchet Wheel 27 inwhich another concentric ratchet wheel. 28 is free to revolve. Springs 29,30 secured to the button-feed-disk 20 hold the ratchet-fwheel 28 against the ratchet-Wheel 27 so that the-former is coupled with the latter and with the 'button-t12e(l-disk by friction. 1

Onfthe Wheels 16 and 17 there ereloosely project beyond lever and engaging at its fee The other forked" en 4-1 of menses 37 on a pin 38 .-fast' the frame of the machine and having its other eml 39' piv;

connect erl with one-em of itfGfl 4:0:

the-rod 40 embraces a shaft 42 cerrying seem 58 engagin with. e projectione on the rod sftyso that at each revolution of the shaft 4&2, that is to say, for each pair of stitches therotl 40 is advanced once and is then retnrngrlliy a spring is acting on the leverfio. Into the ratchet wheel 28, hereinafter collect" the clamp wheel, theresngagesanother pawl 48 on the lever 36 in such position that the otsilly i two pawls and 48 not on opposite sides of the oppositely toothed and 28 and ratchet wheels 5257' thus torn these-two wheels in opposite direction when engaging the some and actuated by the lever 36. When the button-feecislr. 520 nncl the pinion are locked While the shaft 42' is revolverl is the case (luring the'llrst revolution of i ring a in making the covering of the sen ring, the covering feed ratchet 27 is turned step by step by the pawl whereby the in ternally toothed wheel 25 is revolvecl which through the medium of the lLOOtllBCl wheels 16 and-l7 journaled in the button-feed-dlsk causes the ring a to turn steo by step, the said ring being held against the Wheels 16 ancll? by the pressing wheel 18. The clirection of the rotation of the ring 'is then opposite tov that of the wheel 25. At the some time the clamp-wheel 28 is rotated. step by step by means of the pawl 48 in a (lirection opposite to that of the coveringfeed-ratchet 27 that is to say in the same direction as the ring a sliding over the springs 29, 30 and overcoming the friction. The number of teeth on the wheels 27, 28 is so determined, regard being had to the positions of the pawls 35 and 48, that the clamp wheel 28 and the ring a move simultaneously and with the some angular velocity. This permits the fastening of the "loose thread ends on the wheel 28 asfor instance by a spring-clamp 51 without any risk of the said"'threa(ls interfering with the movement of the wheel. The, shaft 42 is geared by spur wheels and 61 to a shaft 73, which letter is provided with a bevel gear 62 meshing with a bevel gear 63 on 5; said gears being so proportioned that the shaft 42 makes one revolution fog two revo-- lotions of the shaft- 5. vnlcd with a pro1cctxon 4-7 (see r Wll1Cll0lHOS into engagement Wish an-1n- Tho/ 30% :40 is prothe slmft so e cline 46 of e coinl5 monntefil on ler sheft 15% which hitter is if i naled in the frame of the machine anal. I. operated from the short by hereinei dcscriheol mcchnnism. When the a: me mode a complete revolution end in. so doing has been provillerl with the covering cone posed of shnttle-threed-loops as hereinbefore .dleserihetl the projection #17 acted upon by the selcl incline 4c whereby the rod 40 is displace shoot the shaft 42 as an and filer-ob so displaces the lever as that the pawl l8 comes out of engagement with the clamp wheel 28. Too pawl 35 strikesthen against a pin elll feet on the cloth-plate and is thus brought out of engagement with the covering feccl ratchet 37. During this first revolution of the ring a the arm 9 is at the bottom cool of the slot of the lever 11 Figs. '3 and Q, so the frame 3 oscillates around the axis e and the needle descends alternately inside and outside the ring 0- whereby the covering is formed on the rin as above set forth. At the some time as t" 1 pnwls 35 and 48 nre thrown out of engage ment with their ratchet-v eels, the arm 31 is raised by an arm pivoted in. the "mine of the machine at "El to such. an extent that end of the arm 9 engaging into the slot in the lever 11 comes opposite the fulcrum on 1%) of the latter. This movement of the arm is brought about l9 oy an incline Tfionn corn "(7 on the controller shaft 15%. Thereby the-oscillations of the frame 3 are stopped and the needle moves up and down only inside the ring a between the body of the latter and the circle formed by the nes llethread Z) locking the shnttlethreml loops inside the ring as above cxplal llll pinion 2e engages into toothedi-ring 52 con trio with and rigidly secured to another tootlreol -ring in any suitable monnen halts or rivets 53 (Figs. 5 8 11 and in}. r

55 is the i. 5) the outer enn cnm 58 on the shaft 42 {see also A. gain t'S-l mounted on the inner ot the" lever 54 into a cam groove o rod 40 that the pnwls 4% come mat of engagcment with the wheels 27, 28. the pin 64: on the Inner lever arm 54 is so nctnatml that the curved extension 54 of said lever shifts the pivotal connection 67 between said lever extension nncl the rorl 1'37 into the oenterol D in the frame of the machine and acted upon rocated by the cooperation of the lever 71 and the cam 72. In this way the buttonfced-disk 20 is directly rotated by the pinion 28 and thetoothcd-ring 52the frictional coupling 26 causing the internal toothed wheel and the covering feed ratchet 27 and the to rotate with the button-feed-disk.

springs 29, causing the clamp-wheel 28 During this. part of the operation of the machine the star-shaped design above described is made. The pawl 69 turns the toothed ring ste b ste J the individual ste s being so I y l l v with determined that the button-feed-disk and the ring are turned at each stitch through the required angle which in all cases is a multiple of a fraction of a complete revolution e.

P p v as above explained and in most cases nearly 180 degrees, for instance 15/32 of a revothe cam-groove that by meaus of the rod- 67 the pawl 69 is brought out of engagement the toothed ring 53 and the pawls 35, 4C8 remain out of engagement with the covering-fecd ratchet '27 and the clamp-wheel 28. The button-hied-disk is turned stepby step, the stop being suitably reduced as compared with the step when the star shaped design is being madeand this is again done by the toothed-rings 52, 53, in the following manner :The lever 71 operates by means of an intermediate lever 78. Figs. 8 and 5 a rod 79 pivotally connected to such lever 78 (Fig. 5) to the free end of which rod apawl 80 is pivoted which is adapted to engage into the toothed ring 53,

(see also Fig. 6). In this way the toothed ring is rotated step by step. A. projection 81 is 1' ovided on the rod 79 which while the covering and the star-shaped design are made bears against a part of a cani 82 on the controlling shaft-154 having a large radius so that the pawl 80 isout of engagement with the ring 53. After completing the starshaped design the incline 83 of the cam 82 moves past the projection8l and the spring 84 connecting the lever 54 and the rod 79 I draws 'the latter with the pawl 80 inward whereby the pawl 80 is brought into engage ment with the toothed ring 53. Ajter the button has been turned in this way through a whole revolution and the annular stitching I, has been completed the batten is finished in,most cases and the machine has to he stopped automatically. Further it is dcsirable that the machine should run at a higher speed while the cover ng and the annular stitching c are being formed than while the star-shaped design is being made. For this purpose on the shaft 5, Fig. 15, three loose. pulleys 85, 86, 87 and a fast pulley 88 "are mounted and-further two belts or cords 89, are provided one of which 89 permanently runs with a high speed and the other 90 permanently runs at a lower speed. The two beltsor cords are held by a fork 91 connected to a lever pivoted at 92 in 'the frame ht the machine. The lever is on the one hand under the action of a cam 94 on a controllingshaft 154 and on't-he height and is so revolved that while the covering is being made the lever 93 bears againstlhe step 97 whereby the fast run-. ning belt 89 is held on the fast pulley 88 and the slow belt 90 is on the loose pulley 86.

The machine then runs at a high speed. After completing the covering the lever 93 comes upon the cam step 96 whereby the slow belt 90 is thrown on the fast pulley 88' and the fast beltcomes on the loose pulley 85. the-machine then runs at a reduced speed while the star design is being made. After completing the latter 'the lever 93 comes again on the cam step 97 and the machine runs at a high speed while the -.-angu1ar stitching?) c is being formed and when this is,finislied the lever 93 comes upon the highest step of the cam .94 and the two bolts 89, 90 come upon the loose pulleys 86. 87 wherebv the machine is stopped? this position is shown in Fig. 15.

The shuttle is arranged in the well-known manner in a shuttle-race 59, Fig. 8, and is operated as usual by a crank 98 upon the shaft 73 through the medium of a rod- 99 acting upon a crank 100 on the shaft 101 (see also Fig. 6). Another arm 102 of the latter actuates the arm 103 of the shuttledriving shaft 10a.

' Fifosnre a proper concatination of the threads.-

ilaltltifilia The thread tension devices are of the greatest importance for the proper working ofthe machine and more particularly those avhich act .on the needle-thread as the latter has, when the covering is'being made, to be drawn to the inside of the ring in order to While the. star-shaped design and the an polar-stitching 12 c are being made the thread-has to be drawn out readily. For

thispurposethe needle thread 6 passes from the-usualflneedle thread bobbin not shown andthrough the vusual automatic thread hr'alrefi'l first overla small roller 105 to the tween which I spindle-i112 slotted longitudinally, the disk 111carriesayoke 113 through which the thread-hrake 106, -then around a thread- ,hook 107 to the take-up arm 108 and thence .through a thread clamp 109 on the front plate of the needle casing, see Fig. 1 1, to the needle 1. The thread-brake 106, Figs. 6 and 16, consists as usual of two disks 110., 111 bethe needle-thread passes. These disks are mounted on a secrewspindlepasses freely and between this yoke and-aunt 4114 screwed'upon the spindle a flight-brake .epringv115 is interposed. 0n

--the-spindlethere is further mounted a *washcr 116' having a bridge-piece 120 passingthrough the slot 119 of the spindle; Be-

tween this washer and a nut 117 screwed upon the spindle within the yoke 113 a ;:strong brake spring 118, -is interposed. .-While the covering is being formed the the light spring 115 has to operate.

strong brake-spring 118 has to be in operation whereas when the star-design and the annular stitching b c are being made only For this purpose a pin 121 Figs. 16 and 6 on a wrod 122 extends through a central bore in the spindle into the slot 119 of the spindle .112. The rod 122 carries an arm 123 (see rod 122 so that the arm 124 on the said rod runs up an incline 127 on the frame of the machine whereby the rod 122 is pushed forward so that the washer 116 is forced away from the disk 111 of the thread-brake. This latter is thenonly under the action of the light spring 115. The take-up arm 108 is actuated in the well known manner by '1 cam 128, 1* ig. 6, acting upon a stud 129 of the take-up arm pivoted at 130 in the frame of the machine. l9rom-.this' take'rup :arm the needle-thread goeato the needle thread clamp. this cOHfilfiiS-zpf n heavy plate made.

spring 109 Fig. 14 adapted to press the t read against the front-plate 131,of the needle-casing.

As clamps or looks the needle-thread in the inward movement of the needle, theshuttle-thread loop Ir (Fig. 1) formed on the outside of the ring a. is drawn by the tightly stretched needle-thread when the needle moves inward, over the top-side of the ring as already set-forth and. is then pushed downward by the needle sliding along the needle-thread. After this has been done theneedle thread clamp opened and a further length of needle-thread can be drawn out for forming theneedle-thread loo at the inside of thering. For enabling the neodle-tliread clamp to operate in this way a pin 132 passes through a hole in the front plate 131 of the needle-casing, this pin is attached'to a bar 133, Fig.- 9, guided in the frame and by means of a sleeve 134 also along the rod 122 of the needle-threadbrake. The rod 133 is provided with an arm 135 acted upon by a cam 136 on the shaft 42; by the combined action of the clamping spring 109 and thespring 138- strung upon the rod 133, the'arm 135 is held against the cam 136 which is so shaped that the rod 133 is held in its forward position while the covering is being made and by means of the pin 132 keeps the clamp spring 109 off the plate 131 so that the needle thread 6 can pass freely with the exception of the periods when the needle moves radially to the ring a and immediately afterward. In the last named periods the cam 136 permits the arm 135 to move back and the rod 133 is pushed back by the springs so that the pin 132 releases the spring 109 and thelatter firmly clamps the needlethread. After finishing the covering the rod design and the annular stitching b 0 are A collar 13'? on the rod 122 then forces the sleeve 134 and therefore also the rod 133 in a forward directionso that the The thread-clamp has to lock theneedle-thread when the needle inits radial movement passes across the ring a,

12201 the needle thread brake is pushed forward as already described for reducing the thread-tension during the time that the starspring 109 is raised oil the plate 131 and cannot act any more upon the thread. A further requirement of a correct formation of the stitches while the covering. is being made is that a length of shuttle thread is drawn from the shuttle while the needle goes from the inside of'the ring a to ,its

outer side in order tokeep ready a sufiicicnt length of -shuttle thread for forming the shuttlethread-loop on the outside of the ring. For this purpose a hook 139 is provided for engaging the shuttle-thread to form the necessary shuttle-threadloop; thev needle-thread lasing inept tightly stretched during themaeeaaaat tit-said hook 139 ta machine and is connected by rod 141 with a slotted lever-112 fulcrumed at 1 13 in the frame of the i'i'lechine, The end 1 14 of the rod 1 11 engaging into a slot oi the said lever is connected by a rod with a lever 146 acted upon by cam 1 17 on e shaft 1 18 driven by the shaft 73 with half the an ler speed of the latter. The slotted lever 112 is further connected with e lever 1 19 acted upon by cem on the shaft 73. The cams 1417 and 150 are so shaped. that when the end 144 of therod 1. 11 is brought to the outer end of the slot in the lever 1412, the

latter is turned beck by the cum 150 so that the hook 139 draws a length 01 thread from the shuttle. When this is donethe end 14:4 of the rod 111 movee to the inner end of the slot in the lever 1 12 opposite the fulcrum oi" the latter and remains there during the remainder of the revolution of the cam 147. In. the revolution made by the cam 150 in the meenwhile and the oscillation of the slotted lever 1 12 the rod 141 remains at rest because its end 144: is then opposite the fulcrum of the lever 1 12 50 that when a stitch is formcd'on the inside of the ring no thread is drawn from the shuttle, out of operation this mechanism after finishing the covering", the fulcrum 151 'of the lever 1 19 is carried by one end of the lever 152 (Fig. 8) pivoted on the fulcrum 143 of the lever 142 and the lever 152 acted upon by a cam 153 on the controlling shaft 154 in such a manner that the lever 152 is turned after finishing the covering so far that it carries the lever 1 19 out of engagement With the cam 150 and is held in this position while the star-shaped design and the annular stitching b 0 are being made. The slottedlever then ceases to rock and the hook is inoperative although the cam 1 17, the lever 11-6 and. the rod 1 15 continue to move. A 7

As; is seen from above the entire operation of the machine is controlled by the cams 45, 65, 77, 94 125, and These cams are mounted on a common controlling: shaft 15 1 journaled in the frame of the machine, (Figs. 12, 13, 5, 6 and 7). A ring is free to turn around this shaft and is provided with a handle 156 carrying a pawl 157 engaging into a ratchet wheel 158 free to turn around the sheft'154. The ratchet- Wheel 158 is firmly attached to 21 brake Wheel 1'60 likewise free to turn around the 511211131541 anq'l carrying a spring-brake 161 provided with an arm 162 engaging into a slot 163 (Fig. 7) in :1, post 164 fast in the frame. Above the ring a ring 165 is For throwing succeeding the recess 178.

menace arranged that the ring 155 adv: ed by e tooth for each revolution of the eieft 42 e. c. for any two consecutive 1. The

spring-broke 161 and the arm 162 curried thereby prevent any excessive movement of the ring 158 due to inertia. Above the ring 160 there is provided a disk 168 fastened. to the shaft 154 and above this dish a ring 169 is arranged which is free to revolve er-ound the shaft 15 i and carries on the one hand a. pawl170 adapted to engage into 177 fast on. the shaft 154: andion the other hand is connected to the eccentric rod 171 of on eccentric 172 mounted upon the shaft 73 The rings 155, 165, 158, 160 and 159 which as above stated are free to rotate erouiid the shaft 154 are preferably-carried by a drum 173 fast on the said shaft 154 and provided with a projecting pin. 175 (Fig. 13) engaging into a sector-shaped recess 17% in the ring 158. The ring 158 is movedistep' by step in the direction of the rro'w 176 -118 above described and hence turns the drum 173 as long as the pin 175 bears against the rear end of the recess 171. After a predetcrinined number of stcbs'of the ring 158, the drum 173, and the ring 177, a recess 178 in the ring" 177 comes undefthe pawl 179 I continuously ieciproceted by the eccentric 172 and the eccentric rod 171' and such pawl then engaging into such recess 178 causes the ring 177 together with the drum 173 and the shaft 15 1 to turn likewise in the direction of the arrow through such 1:; distance that the pin 17 5 nearly reaches the front end of tho sector-shaped recess 174V and indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 13. The following to I and fro movements of the pawl lhtlthei'i simply turn the ring 158 around the drum 173 without affecting the latter until the rear end of the sector-shaped recess 17-4.

strikes once more against the pin 175. During this time the drum 173 and the shaft 154; are no more actuated by the pawl 1'79,

because the latter then freely slides to fro on a smooth part 179 of the ring 1711 But if by so moving the ring 158 the rear end of the sector-shaped recess 17 1 has reached the pin 175 then the drum 173 will again turn to-= gether with the ring 158 as the latter is advanced step by step by the pawl 159 until the next recess 178 of the ring 177 comes into' engagement with the pawl 170 whereupon the operation above described is repeated. The movement of the shaft 154 and the came 45, 65, 77, etc, fastened to it is therefore such that at first it makes a number of short steps owing to the cooperation of the ring 158 and the pin 17 19nd the rear end of the 'gugcment with the com 1817.

. sectoi shu pecl recess 175., that then it makes 11- long step owing to the cooperation of the pawl Hound the recess 173 of the ring 177 an then reins-ins stationary until by advancing the ring 158 the rear end of the sector-shaped recess ha reached the pin 17 1. it is at the time that the drum 173 and 1 1e shaft 15%. make the said long step that the cams 45, 65. W l ow, cause the ports actuated by them to be moved and therefore their movementis 5 rapid one Whiohis the principal advantage of the arrangement described.

liistcud of mounting the cams 15, 65, 77, etc.. upon single con'nnonshaft 151- as above desrribcd they obviously can be mounted on u pluruliiy of shafts actuated by u perinancntly revolving shaft of the machine.

The machine is provided With a prcsscrfoot- 180 scourcd to the prcsser-foot-lmr let .such prcsser-l'oot being of any known or prefcrred construction and being guided in the usual manner and actuated by the shaft The prcsserfoot bar is oscillated around its longitudinal axis by an 'orni 181 (Figs. 5, 6 and 9) secured to it, one end of such arm engaging: with av lever 183 journoled on u stud 182. The said lever is actuated by; u can: 181 on the shaft 42-. The vertical to and. fro movement is imparted to the presser-loot in the following mannor:-The stud 182 is adapted to turn on a journal pin 185 at right angles to the stud, the iournul'pin carrying an arm 186 acted upon a cam 187 on the shaft 42. The preser-foot has not, however, to feed the ringivhile the button is being made but it has only'to spread the shuttle-threed-l00ps of the covering on the top of the ring. a and to smooth them. while such covering is being made. Therefore the Presser-foot has to act only it each second stitch. that is to say. when the shuttlethread-loop has been drawn over the top-side of the ring and it is 415 for this reason that the prcsser-foot-bur is nctuuted by the shaft 42; and moreover the presser-i'oot Jnust be thrown out of opcration after finish ng the covering. This luttcr is brought about by an arm 188011 the rod 122 (Figs. 6 and 9) of the needle-threadbruke 106 which arm after the covering has been finished is turned by the rod 122 which is then turned itself as hereinbcforc described) and acting uponan arm 189 fixed to the P11355191fOOl-blll' 14 raises the h tter whereby also the arm 1536 comes out of on- Another arm 190 if al on the do; 123 cooperates with an arm 191' fast on the lever 1.81 so that when the rod 122 is turned the lever 181 is thrown out o1. engagement with {1 o 184 In order to insure that the threads twisted around in other before theformation of e- 1 y such covering Wit-how wa y interfering with the regular stitching; when finishing the covering, there is provided e protecting foot 192, Figs. 7 and 9 carried by an arm 193 of a short spring actuated shaft 194 journaled in the framing m i tecting footforces the twisted thread ends 39 (as at (Z) against the inside of the ring so that they are safely inclosecl by the shuttlethread-loops forming thecovering Without in any way interfering with the stitching.

For making :1 buttonthe ring a simply 'plucecl bet veen the wheels 16 and 17 end the pressing Wheel 18, the ends of the tin-ends are placed under s clamping-spring 51 on the clamp-wheel 28 and the machine is I] c started. The mechanism hereinbefore described for actuating the toothed ring and the ratchet wheel 27, 28am out of operation while the first stitchesaite being made and also the mechanism for moving the needle radially to the ring. The ring 158 however, is advanced step by step together with the shaft. 15A as aboveiset forth. By the first stitches, therefore, the threads are merely twisted around each other at the inside of the ring a as shown at don the righthand side of Fig.1. -Aftcr a predetermined number of such stitches the shaft 151 will have been turned so far that the cams -15, 77, etc, come into operation for throwing into action the covering feed ratchet 27 and the ch mp wheel 28 and for causing the radial movcn'ients of the necdle to be upand moreover for causing the needle-lbreadbrake and the necdle-thread-clamp to be no ernted in the manner required for forming the covering as liercinbefore described. The following operation up to the finishing of the button are then brought about automoticully in proper succession until the button is completed. when the machine is stopped and the parts "have returned into their initial positions all as hereinbefore described. The finished button may then be removed. In order to prevent an untimely removal of the button, the clump-Wheel 28 is provided with a recess 197 Which on placing the ring between the wheels 16 and 17 and the press ing Wheel 18 is opposite the projection 34 on the disk 33 above the said pressing \i'lieeh the some time the journal-pin 198 of the M inguvheel is in engagement with a book i i 1.0, and 11.) below theclothqalute Qdsuch hook being provided Wlil'll s, lion' o LOO eiitending through a slot 201 in one cloth-plate and pro ecting beyond ths sssne turns with the ring a the projection 34' is (see also F ig.' The presser-wheel can permitting the ring a to be placed in posiclamp-wheel 28 always rotates with the butthe covering is being formed as the projecpressing wheel 18, however, comes out of engagement with the hook 199 so that the them opposite each other.

' II101GOVI provided with a handle 204, Figs.

ering feed ratchet there is' provided at the the journal pin 198 remains in engagement were not opposite the recess 197, the clamp were not-in engagement with the hook 199 sired position. For this purpose a segment plate and carries a spring pawl 203 adapted thus be drawn back by the handle 200, the projection 34 entering the recess 197 for tion. The spring 21 and disk 33 are shown formed of a single resilient plate, which is rigidly secured at 21? to the button-feed disk :20. While the button is being made the ton as above described. but the pressingwheel 18 journaled in the button-feed-disk always moves with the latter as above described. The button-.iieed-disk 20 being stationary as above described while the cover-i ing is being made while the clamp-Wheel 28 stationary when the covering is formed and with the hook 199 but the recess 197 is? moved'step by step. Therefore, the press ing wheel 18 cannot be drawn back while pressing-wheel cannot be drawn back while the star-shaped design and the annularstitching b 0" are being formed and the button cannot be removed. If after automatically stopping the machine the proicction. 34:

Wheel may be turned by hand for bringing If at this time the journal-pin 198 of the pressing-wheel 18 the ring concentric and fast with the toothed ring 5:; may be turned by hand for bringing the said journal-pin into the do 202 concentric to the toothed-ring 53 is provided-which is free to revolve 1n the clothto engage into the toothed ring and is 5, 5 and 7.

In order that while the covering is being formed the button-feed-disk 20 may be positively held stationary and prevented from turning with the button rotated by the covbottom-side of the pinion 23 a recess 205 into which engages an arm 206 on a rod 207 which is acted upon by a cam 208 upon'the controlling shaft 154:. Nhen the covering is commenced the rod 207 is so turned that the arm 206 engages into the recess 205 and thus locks in position the pinion 23 and the button 'feed disk 20 thereby preventing them from turning in ohe direction. Then. the covering is finished. the Hl'l'fl QOii is turned out of the recess 29 by the cam 20-5.

For securing an accurate and regular movement of the toothed rings 53 it is desirable to provide them with spur-wheelteeth and to so shape the pawls iii), that they snugly-fit between the teeth of the ring in order to prevent the same from moving beyond its acurate position owing to its momentum. in such case the pawls must be forced between the teeth while they are making their Working stroke and must come out of engagement with the said teeth before commencing their return-stroke. For this purpose in the case; of the pawl r39 the cam 58 on the shaft -'l2 is provided which rocks the lever 54 so that tl pawl (if) con-' nected with the said lever by the rod 67 is alternately pushed between the teeth of toothed ring 53 and moved out between the same. Of course the cam-groove 35 must be so shaped as to allow for the required outward movement of the pawl. in. the case of the pawl 80 its inward and outward move.- meut is obtained by pivotally ctmnecting the rod 79 with the intermediatelever TS and causing: its rear extension 196 to beacted upon by a cam 209 on-tho shaft -12.

The'handle 15h serves for adjusting the ring 158 and the shaft 154 together with. its cams 45, 65. 77, etc... it' this is at any time required.

The hcrcinbclore described machine operating automatically throughout sn'ves for making buttons such as shown in if it desired to stitch in such buttons one or more internal annular stitchings b c, as shown in Fig. 3, it only new. finishing the annular stitching 7) I. to suitably adjust the cloth-"Mate 21 together with ry utter the button-feerl-disks 20 the covering teed- .ratchet 27 the clam -wheel and the toothed rings 52, fill-relatively to the needle.

it is for this purpose that the clotl'i-plate 2% forms a bearing for the toothed rings 52 and The cloth-plate is adapted to slide ii'rguideszlO ofthe frame of the machmeand maybe adjusted therein by hand by means of handle 211 or it may be adiustcd automatically by means of a cam 222, Fig. 18, on the controlling shaft 154 through the medium of a suitable link and lever-gear 212, 213 in a manner s milar to such as has been heneinbefore described in connection with the belt-fork' 91. The ring a is advanced, the same 'as in forming the stitching b 0 by the pawl 80 and the toothed-ring 53. The slight displacement of the toothed rings 53 relatively to the pawl 80- on adjusting the cloth-plate 54 as set forth affects only the first stitch because the toothed ring is brought into the correct position relatively to the pawl 80 by the latter itseli on its first 

